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MKSAC Newsletter June 2000

6am. Monday. The journey to Oban started, and by sharing the driving with Paul, his car had us in the shadow of Castle Balloch enjoying pub grub, with a saunter along Loch Lomond to follow, as a leg stretcher. At 5 pm. right on schedule we moved onto the North Pier and saw our home for a week, The Gaelic Rose.

With stuff stowed, we met Bob Jones the skipper, and Steve Hughes his cook, his crew and whatever. Bob was a dead ringer for Robin Williams in his Fisher King role, whereas Steve was a younger thinner Kojak. Following Bob’s directions for long stay parking (free).  That done, Oban was ours for the night. More pub grub and some bevies and a walk round the town. Someone in our party spotted Oban’s Folly, a miniature Coliseum perched on top of the surrounding hills and suggested "lets go up to it". If you happen to be in Oban, be warned that if you are gray and mellowing, make sure that you are carrying oxygen and have your ropes and crampons with you. It’s a long way up and down.

Tuesday on the water to the Breda, our first dive, for checking weights and equipment etc.but still very good . The weather had so far been perfect and was (we learned later) going to stay so all week. So everything was going to be good. At 30m the temperature was 10C. The viz was good and the wreck in very good condition (Chris had provided an appropriate book on wrecks of the area, so wreckophiles ought to see Chris, because I’m not going to be too descriptive). The second dive, the Thesis (off Rubha) another good wreck with exposed hull and anchors still present etc. The 3rd on Wednesday was the Hispania (off Mull) a still very well equipped wreck, with anchors and chains and propellor, open holds. Saw Wrasse and Bib swimming about in the gentle current.

The fourth, off Coll, was the General Consul Eisseljaffe, only the boilers visible, no skeletal hull, but once again it became a scenic, cum wreck, cum drift dive. That night we went ashore at loch Aline, where needing to stretch ones legs and walk off another good meal from Steve we went past the Working Men’s Club eventually ending up at the Lochaline Hotel. We struck up conversation with a couple of Newcastle divers on their second night of B & B. The one still trying to eat his meal of a curly sausage and chips and peas, explained they had no alternative for at least 20 miles either way. They had learned this fact earlier when they mentioned over a pint to the landlord, the landlady in earshot, that they fancied an Indian or Chinese meal, the landlady then piped in with the fact about other eating houses being so distant, but said she would spice up their meal. It turned out to be curly sausage and chips and peas and Soy Sauce on the side! How we appreciated Steve’s culinary wonders.

The 5th dive on Wednesday carried on with what was my best day. The Tapti, off Coll, was a split wreck on a reef. Starting at 18m at the bow slowly swimming back taking in Cuckoo and Ballan Wrasse, Saithe (Pollack) and a Scorpion fish, in and out of the open holds. Rising from a hold and then up and over a little rear wheelhouse or similar, there behind a hand rail surround was a “Ground Force” garden. Anemones, Plumose and others, deadmans fingers, frilly things all laid out as if on purpose. Wonderful, over the stern rail and down to the prop area, followed by an ascent on a nearby wall. Really good diving.

Sorry to get all gushy but on Wednesday afternoon I fell in love again. We’d gone ashore at Tobermory a lovely little seaside village, with a home made chocolate factory shop. On entering the shop the heady aroma hit me, both barrels. She was standing, wearing an extremely lightweight dress, before a sun-drenched window. This was it as I surveyed her ample assortments and the delights of her drawers, I knew Willy Wonka had a new home. I bought some chocolate as well.

Later that afternoon we did the Tobermory Wall. Once again it was a combination dive. Down to 21m then slowly up @ 45 degrees to our right taken by a slight current, no fining necessary. From anemones to kelp and finally Bladderwort punctuated with crabs and fish and a vivid green cotton wood sort of weed that grows in clumps. As we approached 6m, 2 or 3 lines of some description went from land outwards and downwards to the depths and apart from ducking underneath had us wondering what they were, then a yellowish barren patch going up. Very straight, very regular, about 1/2m wide, what was it? We just had to follow it, eventually popping our heads out of the water no more than 5 metres from someone’s front window. We were in their water garden, had swum across their boat access path and these were their mooring lines. Fancy popping up in someone’s garden.

Thursday was scenic Pennygown Quarry, out of Salem, down to 10m swim out away from land to the wall and chose your depth. Once you reached the wall it was OK but I struggled against the current to keep up with Paul before that. Most noticeable were the Blue Starfish everywhere you looked. The Ballista in the P.M. was a wreck that wasn’t if you know what I mean. Everything had to be found amongst a forrest of kelp and when we surfaced it seemed only Paul and I had found the enormous anchor and 3 cannon, all that was left apparently. Friday had us diving the Rondo, like the Ballista in Innimore Bay. Close to the shore she was being salvaged when she went down, consequently she lays vertical from 5m to 50m. Lovely wreck in good condition. We swam down the starboard side exploring, under a gap in the rocks and under the keel at 27-28m then up the port side. You can do scenic walls either side as well. The Sound of Kerrera scenic again, loads of wild life Deadmans Fingers, kelp and Anemones, 3 little Cuckoo Wrass, all sorts of Crab, pretty.

We had an invite to Bob’s homeport, Lochaline’s village hall dance and buffet. There was a live band dancing and we were forced literally to consume vast amounts of very nice buffet. Arriving back at the berth about 2.30 in the morning. We had to negotiate with rotund little tummies the biggest tidal drop I’ve seen on a berthed boat. I got vertigo looking at the deck lights.

Some of our party wanted an early start on the Sunday so Bob made that possible for them and then took the remaining divers out to the Breda again. Having done it once we knew our way round and could now be more leisurely. Through the gap where the propeller should have been, round by the rudder then down one side and back up the other. Taking in once again the good condition of the wreck, Ballan Wrasse, Saithe Bib, Pot Lobsters, and Crab. A fitting last dive to what had been a smashing week.

I would recommend Bob and Steve and the Gaelic Rose to anyone. The weather was obviously the crowning glory, but it would have been a good holiday anyway. Many thanks to Dave, Mick and Colin, Wendy and Nick, Gill and Simon, Graham and Paul for enjoyable company and many thanks to Chris for arranging it all, but not unfortunately being able to enjoy it.

Pete J